Robert Davidson's Journal
Home Page: Robert Davidson
Grand Rapids, MI, USA
| Total Posts: 4 | Latest Post: 2016-08-04 |
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I thought I had finished tweaking the carb, but this morning it was idling a bit rough. The choke also needs adjustment. But the major problem is the rumble coming from the water pump, so I guess that will become Monday's project. Then the following week the brakes will get new linings and rear cylinders. Now if only all the boxes in the new house would take care of themselves I could devote more time for the car.
Well we arrived home with no incidents. 500 mile on the first day was all my backside could handle. The next project is to look over the car and see if I can tweak in the weber just a little better. Maybe the timing could be advanced a little to help out. The next event will be Mad Dogs and Englishman in Hickory Corners just outside of Kalamazoo. This is such a great auto museum, and they host such great shows. This week they are hosting the Ford Model A owners, and there are many of them staying in Grand Rapids. I saw at least 9 yesterday.
We will be taking the senic route led by Dave Harnish on Sunday the 9th. Beautiful roads running by Gun Lake. I am looking forward to Mad Dogs, such a nice show and very low key. If you are in the Midwest and have not attended before you should give it a thought. Usually around 350 cars of various types, and much to see in the way of American auto heritage.
We will be taking the senic route led by Dave Harnish on Sunday the 9th. Beautiful roads running by Gun Lake. I am looking forward to Mad Dogs, such a nice show and very low key. If you are in the Midwest and have not attended before you should give it a thought. Usually around 350 cars of various types, and much to see in the way of American auto heritage.
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I had been loooking for the opportunity to install relays for my headlights this past summer, and it finally presented itself. I had chosen to replace my 2 cooling fans and since having the radiator pulled out, it made it quite convenient to work with the wiring harness by the headlights. I purchase 14 gauge wire, light blue to match the circuit, black wire for the ground, and red and white electrical tape to identify each circuit. The power is drawn from the conncetion down at the starter solinoid. I ran the wires up past the charcoal cannister, and there I installed 2 in line fuses. I continued with the wire past the fuse block and installed 2 relays on the inside of the fender next to the ignition switch relay. After cutting the wire to the appropriate lenght I crimped on insulated spade connectors and hooked them up to the corresponding relay. I identified the wiring going to the headlamps and determined which was the feed from the switch and which was the loop going to the left front headlamp. The blue white and blue red wire then ran back to the contact side of the relay, and the power out of the relay ran back up the fender to the connector leading to the headlight. They are now much brighter, and I can have the headlights on, foot on the brake, cooling fan running and the turn signals still function. That was not possible before. Now there is approximatly 5% of the current running through the headlight switch on the steering column. The relays themselves are rated for 40 amps, so I should get years of wear out of them. I purchased them at Auto Zone for something like $15 apiece. My next job was the cooling fan. I pulled out the old fans and hardware. I used the existing wiring for the old fans to power my new one. This is mounted on the inside of the radiator as a "puller". I felt keeping it out of the weather as much as possible would extend the life of the fan, plus it opens up the front of the radiator greatly. The power runs from the black green to the thermostatic fan switch that came with the new unit. That I also mounted on the inside of the right fender well. Then it is a simple matter to plug in the power from the switch to the fan. I also used the existing ground from the old fan for the new one. Total time for the 2 jobs was about 6.5 hours, and I am very happy with the results. The new fan kicks in much sooner that the old setup, and it moves considerably more air. It must be noted that the old thermostat switch has to remain in the radiator to prevent an unwanted geyser!!
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After returning from Kentucky I had to replace the water pump. This is the third one since 2006. Really frustrating since they only seem to last for 8 to 10thousand miles. What's a boy to do. I also had my fuel sending unit quit on the Kentucky trip, and I developed a bit of a new oil leak at the bottom and rear of the engine due to excessive pressure in the sump. That issue was caused by the side cover vent system being plugged with crud in the mesh filter. New wire mesh and the leak was solved. I shouldn't complain since that these were the first problems I have had on a trip in 5 years. Happy motoring.
Member Comments on Journal Entry: Water Pump ↵
2016-08-05 13:24:09 # 36393
Comment by Roger N. Tanner
Excessive pressure in the sump means your vents to the atmosphere are plugged up. I don't know where you are buying your water pumps; but, my water pump has been the same after 79,000 miles. Can I assume your coolant system has anti-freeze as well as just water. Pure water doesn't give as much lubrication, compared to water and modern anti-freeze. Are you having over-heating problems?You might need to send your radiator out for cleaning at the local radiator shop. They unsolder the top and bottom tanks, and mechanically clean the tubes in the radiator core. If it fails this cleaning because it is too corroded, and new radiator is in order. Don't be surprised if the radiator shop and/or the local auto supply can have an MGB radiator shipped in a few days.With fresh coolant, every two years (drain and install new water and coolant) I have driven my 1977 MGB 79,000 miles without any cooling problems or water pumps failures.I was taught to do these ways to keep a coolant system by a 70 year old mechanic when my
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