The YZF-R6 was introduced in 1999 as the super sport version of YZF-R1 super bike, and as a companion to the more street-oriented YZF600R sport bike which continued to be sold alongside the R6. The motorcycle featured Yamaha's completely new engine design capable of producing over 108 hp (81 kW) while stationary. The R6 was the world's first 600cc production four-stroke motorcycle producing over 100 hp (75 kW) in stock form.
The YZF-R6 has been revised several times since its introduction. Starting with the 2003 model, when the R6 became fuel-injected. The 2006 model year was a significant upgrade with a new engine management system featuring the YCC-Tride by wire throttle and a multi-plate slipper clutch. The 2008 model incorporated the YCC-I variable-length intake system to optimize power at high engine rpm and an improved Deltabox frame design.
2006 tachometer problem
In 2006, Yamaha advertised that the R6 had a redline of 17,500 rpm. This is 2,000 rpm higher than the previous R6 model and was the highest tachometer redline of any 2006 production four-stroke motorcycle engine. The true maximum engine speed was limited by the ECU to 15,800 RPM. In February 2006, Yamaha admitted the bike's true engine redline was more than 1,000 rpm lower than what was indicated on the tachometer and had been advertised, and offered to buy back any R6 if the customer was unhappy.
The updated R6 has improved aerodynamics with styling inspired by the current R1 as well as its 43mm inverted front fork and front brakes, new rear shock, a new aluminum fuel tank, magnesium subframe, ABS brakes, riding modes, and traction control. The new aerodynamics are claimed to reduce drag by 8% over previous models. The engine is unchanged with rear wheel power still at about 120 hp. Body is similar to Moto GP's Current 2005–Present YZR-M1
The 2017 update comes with an OBD port. Unlike previous models, this R6 does not have the same diagnostic mode option. In order to retrieve the diagnostic codes, you must purchase an adapter that plugs into any OBD-II scanner. This is the only way other than going to a dealer to erase the error codes.